Theories exist that the tribe’s name of the Frisians comes from the Old Frisian word frisle meaning ‘lock of hair’, a word, in turn, that derives from the Latin language (Van Renswoude 2012). Compare the French verb friser meaning ‘making to curl’. Although this is not the origin of the tribe’s name at all, which has more to do with lugging around earth and poop (check our blog post A severe case of inattentional blindness: the Frisian tribe’s name), it is interesting to see how many early-medieval combs have been found in the territory of former Frisia. First of all it proves that those ancient Frisians were not bald. Unfortunately, archaeological research does not pay a whole lot of attention to what kind of hairstyling the different combs were used for. So, we consulted a seventy-four-year-old hairdresser for a short exercise.
In the Early Middle Ages, as well as before and after, combs may have been objects of daily use. They might also have had a symbolic status or expressed a social status, etc. (Pil 2015).
A recent, excellent article on the Frisian comb (Rijkelijkhuizen 2024) gives a first overview of the different types of hair combs in Frisia during the Early Middle Ages. Although much research is still needed, this article shows that at least from the Carolingian period onward, combs were locally crafted, i.e., Frisia, consisting of the terp region in the north and the coastal area in the west of the Netherlands. But also, the early-medieval emporium Dorestat at the lower reaches of the River Rhine was a location where combs of bone and antler were produced (Van Riel 2017). Hence, the disentangle devices of vanity were not made by traveling artisan crafters, as has also been put forward. In addition, if reindeer antler was imported from Scandinavia all the way to Frisia, why could combs not be exported throughout north and northwest Europe? Surely, the cheaper option above traveling artisans. Bridging long distances over sea and land for a not all too exquisite consumer item.
Another observation in the article of Rijkelijkhuizen (2024) is the great variety of combs in Frisia when compared to Scandinavia, specifically in the terp region in the north of the Netherlands; seemingly a melting pot of comb-making traditions in the wider region of Northwest Europe.
The typologies of combs focus on provenance, age, material(s) used (antler, bone, ivory, wood, etc.), shape (symmetrical or asymmetrical), decoration styles, construction (barred, composite, double- or single-sided), etc. These classifications do not differentiate in their use, besides being used for grooming human hair – head, beard, and/or moustache, whether to look pretty or to control the amount of lice. Also, combs could be used as decoration or have a ritual purpose.
Wooden and iron combs are known from the Roman period but were uncommon in the Middle Ages (Pil 2015). So, mostly bone and antler from cervids were used. Antlers of different types of cervids, namely (imported) reindeer, roe deer, fallow deer, red deer (possibly from the Veluwe area), and elk, were utilized. Antler is lighter and more flexible than bone. Nevertheless, bone gradually replaced antler during the Middle Ages as the most used raw material for manufacturing combs. This was due to the scarcity of antler (Rijkelijkhuizen 2011, Pil 2012), perhaps caused by population growth (of people with hair) and thus greater demand. Population growth also led to more hunting and deforestation, which in turn resulted in even more scarcity of cervids. A rising demand and declining supply.
So, we turned to a locally based hairdresser in the port town of Harlingen in the province of Friesland, Cisca Bouwens. She has been cutting hair for almost sixty years. We asked her to identify the possible use of several combs presented in the article of Rijkelijkhuizen (2024). We just put in front of her the picture without giving any contextual information. Her answers were the following:
This so-called longbone comb type was found near the village of De Lier, a settlement in the province of Zuid Holland, part of former Frisia. Longbone combs are most numerous between the thirteenth and fifteenth centuries (Rijkelijkhuizen 2011). According to coiffeuse Bouwens, this comb is similar to combs used for thick and long hair, suited for frizzy hair.
note – Settlement De Lier is first mentioned in the year 985 when Holy Roman Emperor Otto III gave a benefice to Dirk II, the count of West Frisia. The charter said ‘inter duo flumina que vocantur Liora et Hisla’, which translates as ‘located between the rivers that are called Lier and IJssel’. Liora or Lier was the name of a tidal creek connected to the mouth of the River Meuse flowing into the North Sea. The name Liora could mean something like ‘the clear water’ (Van Duijn 2020), compare with the Swedish water toponym Ljur(a) meaning ‘light/bright’ (Van Berkel & Samplonius 2018).
This is a so-called barred comb made of antler and was found at the small village of Finkum in the province of Friesland, part of former Frisia. It is dated to the fifth century. According to coiffeuse Bouwens, this comb looks like it was used for ornamental purposes, probably for pinned-up hair. Most probably for women, not men, with long hair.
note – The name of the settlement Finkum has no clear explanation. Oldest attestation is only in the year 1335, written as Finckum (Van Berkel & Samplonius 2018).
This composite double-sided comb is made of antler and was found in the terp Ondersma near the village of Hallum in the province of Friesland, part of former Frisia. It is dated to the fifth century. This is, according to coiffeuse Bouwens, a standard comb. “These combs have on one side teeth that are very close together in order to remove lice and nits”, Bouwens added.
note - Settlement Hallum is first documented in the year 1136 as Hallem. Probably this means as the place where a great hall used to be (Van Berkel & Samplonius 2018). A possible hall of the local leader has been identified at Hallum, dating eight-ninth centuries. It is a circa 18.2 meters long and 6.2 meters wide, single-isled building. Contrary to the other buildings with walls made of turfs/clay sods, its walls are also made of wood (Postma 2020, Nieuwhof 2023). In the province of Zuid Holland another Hallem existed, today known as the village of Egmond-Binnen. Again, here too an early-medieval hall of a local big man is believed to have existed (Dijkstra 2011).
This composite double-sided comb was found near the town of Pijnacker in the province of Zuid Holland not far from the city of The Hague, also part of former Frisia. It is dated twelfth century. According to coiffeuse Bouwens this is a standard comb too, like the previous.
note – Oldest attestation of settlement Pijnacker is Pinacker, mentioned in the year 1222. The name might translate to ‘pain acre’. So, plough land or farmland where possible a place of punishment or execution used to be (Van Berkel & Samplonius 2018).
Conclusion
We humble hikers have no clue whether hairdressers have been consulted previously by archaeologists to help identify the specific purpose of combs. We think this short exercise shows it can perhaps provide additional insight into grooming and hairdo common back in the days.
Note 1 - Featured image a medieval comb found in the terp Wijnaldum-Tjitsma in the province of Friesland (Prummel et al 2011).
Note 2 – If interested in more lifestyle of early-medieval Frisians, like jewellery, haircut, cloths, shoes and so on, check our blog posts Odin’s Ravens ruled over the southern shores. Not the Hammer of Thor, Ornament of the Gods found in a mound of clay, Haute couture from the salt marshes, Terrorist Fighters from the Wadden Sea. The era of the Crusades, and Boots made for walkin’.
Suggested music
MacDermot, G., Hair (1968)
Nirvana, Come As You Are (1992)
Further reading
Bennett, J., New analysis of Norse combs provides fresh insight into Viking life in Britain (2024)
Berkel, van G. & Samplonius, K., Nederlandse plaatsnamen verklaard. Reeks Nederlandse plaatsnamen deel 12 (2018)
Dijkstra, M.F.P., Rondom de mondingen van de Rijn en Maas. Landschap en bewoning tussen de 3e en de 9e eeuw in Zuid-Holland, in het bijzonder de Oude Rijnstreek (2011)
Duijn, van J., Geschiedenis van het Westland. Van Romeinse nederzetting tot Tuin van Europa (2020)
Nieuwhof, A., Ezinge in de vroege middeleeuwen (2023)
Oijen, van T., Optutten op de terp (2012)
Pil, N., Comb making in Early Medieval Antwerp (2015)
Postma, D., House plan analysis Hallum-Hellema (Friesland). A three-dimensional reconsideration of the early medieval turf buildings (2020)
Prickett, K., 'Extraordinary' Viking combs reveal Ipswich's medieval importance (2024)
Prummel, W., Halici, H. & Verbaas, A., The bone and antler tools from the Wijnaldum-Tjitsma terp (2011)
Renswoude, van O., Namen van Nederlandse stammen: Frisii (2012)
Riel, van Sj., Viking Age Combs. Local Products or Objects of Trade? (2017)
Rijkelijkhuizen, M., Dutch medieval bone and antler combs (2011)
Rijkelijkhuizen, M., Op zoek naar de Friese kam. Een kammentypologie voor het Nederlandse grondgebied (2024)
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